with the Powers.  The contention put forward more or less officially by Austria, that if this right were conceded to Roumania the other riparian Powers might claim the same privilege, is answered by the simple statement that such right is theirs already, as much as it is the right of Austria to control the navigation of the Danube at Pesth or Vienna, of Germany to regulate that of the Rhine at Cologne, or Belgium at Rotterdam.  So far as England is concerned, it needed not the revelations of M. Catargi to acquaint us with the fact that Austria will do as she has done, namely, attempted to limit our trade in the basin of the Danube; and our interests and those of Roumania are therefore identical.

But it is to be hoped that passing events in that part of Europe will cure Austria of her aggressive tendencies, and that she will not assume the same attitude towards the Powers as she did towards her weaker neighbour.  She will gain more by co-operating loyally with her to improve the navigation of the lower Danube than by striving either openly or secretly to secure a predominance which she could not permanently maintain even if her present efforts were successful.

[Footnote 25:  Chiefly Greek and Turkish.]

[Footnote 26:  The correspondence, which extends from June 23 to September 5, 1880, and is chiefly telegraphic, was published in the supplement to the Independance Roumaine, Bucarest, December 6 [18], 1881.]

[Footnote 27:  After this despatch follows one from M. Bratiano, the Roumanian Secretary of State, finding fault with M. Calargi for his unfriendly tone towards Austria, and here is his edifying reply on that point.  ’Let me satisfy you (vous rassurer) as to the consequences that might arise from the handing in of this document.  Written on paper without any mark, deprived of every official or individual character, bearing no signature, this historical resume of the phases through which the question has passed cannot compromise anyone.’  This is one of the men who make history, and to whom the lives and interests of the million are confided!]

CHAPTER IV.

TOPOGRAPHICAL, ETC.

The chief cities of Roumania—­The capital, Bucarest—­Ignorance concerning it—­Conflicting accounts—­Its true character—­The ’sweet waters of the Dambovitza’—­Dimensions of Bucarest—­External aspect—­The Chaussee, the ladies’ mile of Bucarest—­Streets, shops, and houses—­The Academy—­Its collections—­Coins—­Dacian, Roman, and other antiquities—­Excellent physical laboratory—­Professor Bacologlu—­The Coltza laboratory—­Dr. Bernath—­The Cismegiu Garden—­Shabby courts of justice—­Other buildings—­Churches—­Railway stations—­Fine hospitals—­Dr. Davila—­The Colentina Hospital—­The ‘police des moeurs’ and the morality of Bucarest—­The ‘Philanthropic’ Hospital—­The ’Coltza’—­Its museums—­Life in Bucarest—­Hotels—­The upper classes—­Places of amusement—­Cost