Trees, Fruits and Flowers of Minnesota, 1916 eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 825 pages of information about Trees, Fruits and Flowers of Minnesota, 1916.

Trees, Fruits and Flowers of Minnesota, 1916 eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 825 pages of information about Trees, Fruits and Flowers of Minnesota, 1916.

A gardener who has never yet lost a plant through winter-killing treats them as follows:  After they have finished blooming he cuts them down to about eight inches above the ground and lets the leaves blow in on the bed, covering to a depth of six or eight inches.  Then he lays pine branches over the beds to prevent the leaves from blowing away.  So treated, the plants will remain frozen all winter.  They should in all cases be set in a well drained position, as they will not stand “wet feet.”  Uncover with the other perennials in the spring.—­Mrs. E. W. Gould.

BEE-KEEPER’S COLUMN.

Conducted by FRANCIS JAGER, Professor of Apiculture, University Farm, St. Paul.

The Minnesota honey crop of 1916 will probably be a record breaker.  This brings up the question of how to market this crop to the best advantage.  Let me state at once that the greatest obstacle to free and easy selling of honey is the careless, untidy, sometimes unsanitary way some bee-keepers put up their honey for the market—­spoiling the appetite of the public for this most delicious of nature’s foods not only for themselves but also for progressive and up-to-date bee-keepers.  The result of this big honey crop will be to eliminate the No. 2 and No. 3 bee-keeper and his honey from the market until No. 1 has sold out his product.

A short article like this cannot make a good bee-keeper out of a poor one, it can only serve as a reminder to those who know how “lest they forget.”  Moreover, the most careless and backward bee-keepers imagine that they are crackerjacks at their trade, thus putting themselves beyond the possibility of becoming anything.  It takes a thousand hammer-blows to drive home a truth or a useful idea.

If comb honey is your specialty observe the national grading and packing rules.  They are printed in all bee papers and magazines, and have been given all possible publication to reach you.

To obtain fancy comb honey your sections must have been made over strong colonies in No. 1 white, new sections with extra thin top and bottom starters.  After the honey flow is over in your locality (which you can detect by the tendency of bees to rob and be cross) remove your comb honey at once.  By leaving it on, travel stained and propolis spotted sections will result.  The snow white finish of the comb will be discolored, the wood will assume that “used and handled” appearance which is not attractive to the buyer.  The sections must be graded fancy, No. 1 and No. 2.  Every section must be scraped around the edges and all propolis removed.  Some bee-keepers even polish the wood of the section until it looks as clean as if it just came from the factory.

After cleaning and grading put up your honey into standard shipping cases.  Do not ship it in the super where it was raised nor in a soap box.  If shipped to a distant market by freight or express, eight shipping cases must be packed together into one honey crate provided with handles.  The tendency of late is to put up each comb in a separate paper box with transparent front to keep the honey free from flies and finger-marks.  This practice deserves universal adoption.

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Project Gutenberg
Trees, Fruits and Flowers of Minnesota, 1916 from Project Gutenberg. Public domain.