being dead makes labour dear as well.  The high Nile was a small misfortune compared to the murrain.  There is a legend about it, of course.  A certain Sheykh el-Beled (burgomaster) of some place—­not mentioned—­lost his cattle, and being rich defied God, said he did not care, and bought as many more; they died too, and he continued impenitent and defiant, and bought on till he was ruined, and now he is sinking into the earth bodily, though his friends dig and dig without ceasing night and day.  It is curious how like the German legends the Arab ones are.  All those about wasting bread wantonly are almost identical.  If a bit is dirty, Omar carefully gives it to the dog; if clean, he keeps it in a drawer for making breadcrumbs for cutlets; not a bit must fall on the floor.  In other things they are careless enough, but das liebe Brod is sacred—­vide Grimm’s Deutsche Sagen.  I am constantly struck with resemblances to German customs.  A Fellah wedding is very like the German Bauern hochzeit firing of guns and display of household goods, only on a camel instead of a cart.  I have been trying to get a teacher of Arabic, but it is very hard to find one who knows any European language, and the consular dragoman asks four dollars a lesson.  I must wait till I get to Thebes, where I think a certain young Said can teach me.  Meanwhile I am beginning to understand rather more and to speak a very little.  Please direct to me to Briggs and Co. at Cairo; if I am gone, the letters will follow up the river.

December 1, 1863:  Mrs. Ross

To Mrs. Ross.  CAIRO, December 1, 1863.

Dearest Janet,

I should much like to go with Thayer if his times and seasons will suit mine; but I cannot wait indefinitely, still less come down the river before the end of April.  But most likely the Pasha will give him a boat.  It is getting cold here and I feel my throat sore to-day.  I went to see Hassan yesterday, he is much better, but very weak and pale.  It is such a nice family—­old father, mother, and sister, all well-bred and pleasing like Hassan himself.  He almost shrieked at hearing of your fall, and is most anxious to see you when you come here.  Zeyneb, after behaving very well for three weeks, has turned quietly sullen and displays great religious intolerance.  It would seem that the Berberi men have put it into her head that we are inferior beings, and she pretends not to be able to eat because she thinks everything is pig.  Omar’s eating the food does not convince her.  As she evidently does not like us I will offer her to Mrs. Hekekian Bey, and if she does not do there, in a household of black Mussulman slaves, they must pass her on to a Turkish house.  She is very clever and I am sorry, but to keep a sullen face about me is more than I can endure, as I have shown her every possible kindness.  I think she despises