and two of stuffed olives or of bonbons.  Individual salt cellars are at the top of the plate; a roll is folded in the napkin, sometimes laid on the bread-and-butter plate, which is placed at the left.  Such rolls should be small and well-baked.  At formal dinners no butter is served, and the plates are omitted.  Finger bowls are brought in after the ices or the pudding.  They are on a small plate on which is a doily, and the fruit knife, if to be used, is on the plate.  The guest lays bowl and doily at his right, lifting the two together, the plate being for fruit, if any is served.  If no fruit, the bowl is left on the plate.

[Manners and social customs 703]

LUNCHEONS.

The luncheon is a less elaborate function than the dinner, but ranks next it in point of compliment and display.  The “stand-up” or buffet luncheon is much less popular than formerly, in fact even at the so-called buffet luncheons the guests are now seated at small tables accommodating four.  Invitations are sent out ten days or two weeks in advance, and require prompt replies.

Formal Luncheons.—­Save in a less elaborate menu, the formal luncheon differs very little from the dinner, except that the latter is at seven o’clock, and the luncheon almost invariably at one.  The menu generally begins with grape fruit, served in glasses on small plates and doilies, and on the table when the guests are seated.  An orange spoon is used.  The table is set as for dinner, save that less silver is laid.  Bouillon, served in bouillon cups, with a spoon on the saucer may follow.  Then may come lobster a la Newburg; sweet-breads and peas; salad; ices and coffee.  In place of the sweet-breads one may serve squab on toast, fillet of beef, or broiled chicken; peas, beets, and potatoes cut in balls and cooked in deep fat may accompany anyone of these.  The meat, cut in portions, and surrounded by mounds of the vegetables, is often served from a large platter, from which the guests help themselves.  The hostess is served first; this is, that, in case any unfamiliar dish is served, she may show how it is to be handled.  The lady on her right is next in order of serving.  The same etiquette in regard to serving, changing plates, etc., is observed as at the dinner, save that the rolls are on bread-and-butter plates instead of being folded in the napkin.  The decorations, ornamental dishes, candies, and the like are used as at a dinner.

Minor Particulars.—­The roast never figures at a luncheon; the courses consist largely of what are called entrees, the idea being that the repast is of a lighter character than a dinner.  The salad is a special feature; it may be chicken, Waldorf, fruit, or any kind preferred, but must be carefully studied in its relation to the other dishes.

[704 Mothers’ remedies]

The guests keep on their hats during the luncheon, removing the gloves as they are seated; at an informal luncheon the gloves are removed in the dressing room.