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William Hamilton Gibson
This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 313 pages of information about Camp Life in the Woods and the Tricks of Trapping and Trap Making.

[Illustration:  Method No. 3]

Two notched pegs are first driven into the ground, about four inches apart, and the flat stick with the hole in the centre caught beneath these summits, as just described.  It should be firmly secured; several nooses are next to be attached to the drawstring, and the trap set as already directed.

[Illustration]

The best bait consists of a “nub” of pop-corn, firmly impaled on the spindle, together with a few loose grains scattered on the ground right beneath it.  The nooses should be arranged around the bait so as to touch or overlap each other, and the bait stick introduced into the hole a little more firmly than when set with one noose.  The quail on reaching the trap all rush for the corn on the ground, and thus fill nearly if not all the nooses.  When the supply here is exhausted, then united attacks are directed towards the “nub” on the bait stick, which soon becomes loosened:  the knot is thus released and each noose will probably launch a victim in mid-air.  This invention is original with the author of this work, so far as he knows; and it will be found the simplest as well as most effective quail snare in existence.  Pop-corn is mentioned as bait partly on account of its being a favorite food with the quail; but particularly because the pecking which it necessitates [Page 55] in order to remove the grains from the cob, is sure to spring the trap.  If pop corn cannot be had, common Indian corn will answer very well.  Oats or buckwheat may also be used, as the ground bait, if desired.

THE BOX SNARE.

This is a most unique device, and will well repay anyone who may desire to test its merits.  It may be set for a rabbits, coon, or feathered game, of course varying the size of the box accordingly.  For ordinary purposes, it should be seven or eight inches square, leaving one end open.  Place it in the position shown in the illustration and proceed to bore an auger hole in the top board, one and a half inches from the back edge.

[Illustration]

This is for the reception of the bait stick.  Directly opposite to this and an inch from the front edge of the board a notched peg should be inserted.  A gimlet hole should now be bored on a line between the auger hole and notched peg, and half an inch from the latter.  A small stout screw eye should next be inserted at the rear edge of the board, and another one fastened to the back board, two inches from the bottom.  With these simple preparations the box is complete.  The bait stick should be about five or six inches long and supplied with a notch at the upper end.  It should be of such a size as to pass easily into the auger hole, and provided with a peg inserted through it at about an inch and a half from the notched end, as shown in our illustration at (a).  The object of this peg is to prevent the bait stick from being drawn entirely [Page 56]

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