By the aid of a gimlet or awl, four holes should now
be made through the board, beneath the end of each
cross piece, and also directly under the side piece.
It is well to mark with a pencil, the various points
for the holes, after which the sticks can be removed
and the work much more easily performed. The
four holes should be about an inch apart, or so disposed
as to mark the four corners of a square inch.
It is also necessary to make other holes along the
length of the cross pieces, as seen in the illustration.
The line on these can also be marked with the pencil
across the board, and the holes made afterwards.
These should also be an inch apart, and only two in
number at each point, one on each side of the stick.
When all the holes are made the board should be turned
over, in order to complete preparations on the other
side. The object of these various holes is for
the passage of the leather shoe-strings for the purpose
of securing the cross pieces firmly to the board.
In order to prevent these loops from wearing off on
the under side, small grooves should next be made
connecting the holes beneath, thus allowing the leather
string to sink into the wood, where it is securely
protected from injury. A narrow chisel is the
best tool for this purpose, the making of the grooves
being much more easily and perfectly accomplished
with this than with the jack-knife. When the under
side is thus finished the board may be turned over
and the cross pieces and sides again arranged in place
as already described. Secure the pieces to the
board by the leather strings through the various holes,
always knotting on the upper surface, and taking care
that the knots are firmly tied. The ends of all
the cross pieces will require a double cross stitch
through the four holes beneath, in order to secure
the side pieces as well. This is plainly shown
in the small diagram (a
). The front end
of each side piece underneath should now be sharpened
to a point, to allow for the bend at the front of
the toboggan. The cross piece at this end should
be secured to the under side of the board, so that
as it bends over it will appear on the upper edge,
as our illustration shows. The board should [Page
272] next be bent with a graceful curve, and thus
held in position by a rope or strip of leather at
each extremity of the end cross piece and attached
to the ends of the third cross piece, as seen in the
engraving. If the bending is difficult and there
is danger of breaking the board, the application of
boiling water will render it pliable. The draw
strings should then be attached to the ends of the
second cross piece, and our toboggan is now complete.
It may now be laden with two or three hundred pounds
of merchandize and will be found to draw over the
surface of the snow with perfect ease. For coasting
over the crust there is nothing like it. Such
a toboggan as we have described will easily accommodate
three boys, the one at the stern being provided with
a sharp stick for steering, and the front occupant
holding firmly to the draw strings. The toboggan
is easily made, and will do good service either for
traffic or sport.