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A Wanderer in Venice eBook

This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 291 pages of information about A Wanderer in Venice.

After the Michiel dalle Colonne is a little newish house and the Gothic Palazzo Michiel da Brusa with blue posts with yellow stripes, rather overweighted with balconies but having nice ironwork; and then the comfortable-looking Mangilli Valmarana with blue posts with red and white tops, and the Rio dei SS.  Apostoli with a view of the campanile along it.  Next a dull white building with flush windows, and next that the fine and ancient Palazzo da Mosto.  This house has many old sculptured slabs worked into the facade, and it seems a great pity that it should so have fallen from its proper state.  An ugly modern iron balcony has been set beneath its Gothic windows.  Adjoining is a house which also has pretty Gothic windows, and then the dull and neglected Palazzo Mocenigo, with brown posts.  Then comes the Rio S. Gio.  Crisostomo, and next it a house newly faced, and then the fascinating remains of the twelfth-century Palazzo Lion, consisting of an exposed staircase and a very attractive courtyard with round and pointed arches.  It is now a rookery.  Washing is hung in the loggia at the top, and ragged children lean from the windows.

[Illustration:  THE RIALTO BRIDGE FROM THE PALAZZO DEI DIECI SAVII]

Next, a pretty little house which might be made very liveable in, facing the fruit market, and then the hideous modern Sernagiotto, dating from 1847 and therefore more than negligible.  A green little house with a sottoportico under it, and then a little red brick prison and the ugly Civran palace is reached.  Next, the Perducci, now a busy statuary store, and next it the Ca Ruzzini, all spick and span, and the Rio dell’Olio o del Fontego, through which come the fruit barges from Malamocco.  And now we touch very interesting history again, for the next great building, with the motor-boats before it, now the central Post Office, is the very Fondaco dei Tedeschi, the head-quarters of German merchants in Venice, on whose walls Giorgione and Titian painted the famous frescoes and in which Tintoretto held a sinecure post.  Giorgion’s frescoes faced the Canal; Titian’s the Rialto.

And so we reach the Rialto bridge, on this side of which are no shrines, but a lion is on the keystone, and on each side is a holy man.  After the Rialto bridge there is nothing of any moment for many yards, save a house with a high narrow archway which may be seen in Mr. Morley’s picture, until we reach Sansovino’s Palazzo Manin, now the Bank of Italy, a fine building and the home of the last Doge.  The three steamboat stations hereabouts are for passengers for the Riva and Lido, for Mestre, and for the railway station, respectively.  The palace next the Ponte Manin, over the Rio San Salvatore, is the Bembo, with very fine windows.  Then the Calle Bembo, and then various offices on the fondamenta, under chiefly red facades.  At the next calle is a traghetto and then the Palazzo Loredan, a Byzantine building of the eleventh or twelfth century, since restored. 

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