We rode for fifteen miles in the direction of Santa Teresa.  The country was rough and but sparsely inhabited.  In fact, I passed three deserted ranches, and near one of them I killed a Gila monster that was just making its burrow.  There lay an air of antiquity over the whole landscape.  About half a league before reaching the caves we sought, I came upon quite an extensive fortification; I also noticed a number of trincheras in one arroyo; and above it on a mesa, running along the edge, we found a wall built of loose stones.  The mesa, 300 by 200 feet in extent, was a natural fortress difficult of access, except at one point where a little cordon, like an isthmus, led to it.  Here, however, I found no vestige of ancient inhabitants.

There were two shallow caves close to each other in the remote valley into which the guide had led me.  In the larger one, which was eight feet deep and twelve feet broad, nine skulls were found.  In the other were only a few bones, and I noticed indications of partitions, in the shape of upright stones, between the skeletons.  The bodies must have been partly buried, with the heads protruding, in spaces a foot square.

It was nearing dusk and I had to get back to my camp that evening.  On the road my mule gave out, and for the last part of the way I had to walk.  I refreshed myself with some zapotes, which were just in season.  This native fruit of Mexico has the flavour of the pear and the strawberry, and is delicious when picked fresh from the tree; but as soon as it falls to the ground it is infested with insects.

Contrary to expectation, when I was ready to leave the village, I found it exceedingly difficult to get men.  As the Coras here do not understand the mule business, I had to resort to the Mexicans in the valley, who, however, acting under instructions from the padre, would have nothing to do with me.  They even shunned those who were seen in my company.  One man who used to carry on some trading with the Huichols was more daring than the rest.  He declared that he would serve the devil himself if he got paid for it, and tried to make up a party for me, but failed.  He was ruining his reputation for my sake, he told me; even his compadre (his child’s godfather), on account of his association with me, ran away when he saw him coming.  The situation finally became so exasperating that I was compelled to write to the Bishop in Tepic, and lay the case before him.  I stated that the padre, without having seen me, had placed me in a bad light before the people, and had then left the country, making it impossible for me to convince him of his error of judgment; that if it were not for the strong recommendations I had from the Government and the Commanding General of the Territory, it would be impossible for me to stay here, except at great personal risk.