the creatures were lifted by ropes looped around their horns.  The first few were lifted singly, but after that, two at once.  While it sounds brutal, it is really a most convenient method, and the animals, though startled, do not seem to be injured in the least, nor indulge in much kicking.  By 11:40 all were loaded and we were ready for our start.  We had to wait until the customs-house inspector should come on board to discharge us, and this was not done until half-past one.  We sailed out, between the jetties, at two o’clock, and found the Gulf rough, and a high wind, which continued through most of our voyage.  The smell from the cattle was disagreeable, and between it and the roughness, all were seasick before the first afternoon was over.

Captain Irvine is the youngest captain of the Ward Line, being but twenty-six years of age.  He has followed the sea since he was thirteen years old.  A Nova Scotian by birth, he has sailed this coast for some little time, and is a competent official, doing his utmost for the pleasure and convenience of his passengers.  The journey was uneventful.  There was some excitement among the third-class passengers, many of whom were drunk and quarrelsome.  The first evening, two of them were fighting, with the result that the head of one was split open and had to be dressed by the captain.  When we had been some forty-eight or fifty hours at sea, we found ourselves off the Campeche banks, in quieter water.  Those who had suffered from sickness were again quite themselves.  It was 4:30 Sunday morning, February 3, after we had been almost three days and three nights at sea, and four days on the boat, that the Progreso light was sighted, and not long after we came to anchor.  We waited from six o’clock until almost ten for lighters and the doctor.  After he had made his inspection, we piled off with all our baggage onto a little steamer, which charged three dollars, each passenger, for taking us to the pier, which was close by, and to which our own boat could easily have run.  This, however, was but the beginning of Yucatecan troubles.  When we found ourselves on the wharf, the customs officials insisted upon our going to the general office for inspection, on account of the character and amount of our luggage.  Arrived there, we found that we had no clearing papers for our stuff, and forty dollars duty was required for material which had already paid duty in entering Mexico, and which had only gone from one Mexican port to another, as baggage.  In vain we argued and attempted to explain matters.  The officials advised us to bring the American consul and have him straighten matters; but his office was shut, as it was Sunday.  Meantime, we saw the train, which we had expected to take at 11:30, leave for Merida, and at twelve o’clock the customs-house offices were closed, and we were forced to leave the business for another day.  Fortunately, there are two railroads from Progreso to Merida, and we were able to take an afternoon train