horse and grumbling at our speed, he was continually complaining at our slowness.  “Why don’t the boys want to go fast?” he would say.  “Don’t you want to get there at a good hour?  Why do you go so slowly?” And then, striking the horse, he trotted along at wonderful speed.  We reached Huautla at half-past-eight, stopping an hour to feed our horses and to eat beans and tortillas.  We then pushed on down the slope, and out over the long ridge, passing the hut of our Cordoban Aztec woman.  It was the hottest hour of the day when we descended the broad road, over the hot rocks, and saw Cuicatlan in the distance.  Thanks to our arriero, we drew up at Dona Serafina’s when it was but 3:40 in the afternoon, having been upon the road eleven hours.

[Illustration]

CHAPTER XIX

HUAUHTLA AND THE MAZATECS

(1900)

A short ride upon the train, through the hot and dusty valley, brought us to the miserable station of San Antonio, from which, we had been assured, a coach ran daily to Teotitlan del Camino; arrived at the station, no stage was in sight, and we were told that it sometimes came and sometimes not.  Accordingly, leaving my companions at the station in care of the baggage, I walked to the village, half a mile away, to see what arrangements could be made for transportation.  It was hot, and it seemed difficult to arouse interest on the part of the town authorities.  Neither conveyance nor animals were to be had.  Accordingly, a foot messenger was sent to Teotitlan, which is a cabecera, asking that some arrangement be made for transporting us.  As there was no hurry, and it would be some time before we could receive an answer, I sat under the thatched roof in front of the town-house, resting and enjoying the little breeze which had sprung up.  Suddenly the belated coach, itself, came into sight, bound for the station.  Starting to mount, the driver told me it was better for me to remain sitting comfortably in the shade, and that he would pick up my companions, of whom, I told him, there were three, and that I could join the company, as they passed.  As arrangements had already been made regarding the transportation of the baggage by mules, the advice seemed good, and I remained where I was.  A long time passed, and when, at last, the coach arrived, it contained but one passenger, a dignified licenciado.  When I asked the driver where my companions were, he answered that they had refused to come because I had sent no written order to that effect.  I suggested that we should turn back and get them, but to this proposition he gave refusal.  Not only so, but the licenciado expressed vexation at the delay which he was suffering, and demanded that we should go on at once.  Argument, persuasions, threats were all of no avail, and, as it was necessary that I should see the jefe at the earliest possible moment, I was forced to mount the coach and leave my unfortunate and obedient companions to their fate.  For an hour and a half the coach lumbered slowly over a hot and dusty road, which passed between small, bare, gray or brown rock hills, rising to a higher level only a little before we reached Teotitlan itself.