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This eBook from the Gutenberg Project consists of approximately 49 pages of information about Handbook on Japanning.
be as well to have a course of brickwork beneath the oven, while if this is not possible on account of want of height, a sheet or so of zinc or iron will help to mitigate the danger.  It is also advisable, if the apartment is a low-pitched one, to have a sheet of iron or zinc suspended by four corner chains from the ceiling in order to protect this from firing through the heat from the enamelling oven.  Of course, it will be understood that every portion of the stove must be put together with rivets, no soldered work being permissible.

[Illustration:  Fig. 2.—­Door of Oven when Shut.]

To those who wish to construct their own stove, it will be found that the framework can be shaped out of 1-inch angle iron, the panels or walls being constructed of sheet-iron of about 18 gauge, the whole being riveted together.  The front will be occupied in its entire space by a door, which will require to be hung on strong iron hinges, and the framework of this door should be constructed of 1 inch by 1/4 inch iron—­a rather stouter material will really be no disadvantage—­to which the sheet-iron plates must be riveted.  In the centre of the door must be cut a slit, say 1-1/2 inches by 9 inches, which will require to be covered with mica or talc behind which must be placed the thermometer, so as it can be seen during the process of stoving, without the necessity of opening the door, which, of course, more or less cools the oven.  And, by the way, this thermometer must register higher than the highest temperature the oven is capable of reaching.  Above is shown a sketch of the stove, interior and exterior, which will give an idea of what a japanner’s stove is like.

[Illustration:  Fig. 3—­Showing Stove when Open, and Back of Door.]

Inside the stove it will be necessary to fix rows of iron rods, some four inches from the top, from which to suspend the work, or angle-iron ledges can be used on which the rods or bars can be fixed, these arrangements being varied according to the particular description of work, individual fancy, or other circumstances.  Large S hooks are about the handiest to use.  A necessary adjunct of the stove is a pan, which can be made by any handy man or tinworker, which should be made to fit the bottom of the stove above the gas jets, it being arranged that it rests on two side ledges, or along some rods.  One a couple of inches in depth will be found sufficient, and it will repay its cost in the saving of enamel, it being possible with its use to enamel a bicycle with as little as a gallon of enamel.  Some workmen have the tray made with a couple of hinged side flaps, to turn over and cover up the pan when not in use, but this is a matter of fancy.  Of course, they must always be covered up when not in use.  For those who would prefer to use Bunsen burners, I show at Fig. 4 a sketch of the best to employ, these having three rows of holes in each.

[Illustration:  Fig. 4.—­Bunsen Burner.]

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