ZOAR.

In its summer aspect this is a singularly lovely place.  Yet, I see each station at its best, and can only guess at the changes which snow and ice will work in the landscape.  Were this spot in Europe, it would soon be a favourite summer resort.  Being in Labrador, however, the summer visitors would speedily fly from the swarms of mosquitoes and sand-flies.  These appear as soon as the weather is at all warm and are a veritable plague in the summer evenings, which would else be so enjoyable.  And when these myriad tormentors with wings and stings are gone, rude winter cuts short the autumn.

As usual in Labrador, the little mission-station lies on the north side of the bay, so that the wooded hill behind shields it from the northern blasts.  This fir-clad slope makes Zoar much more friendly in appearance than any other station.  Hopedale is bare and treeless in its general aspect and so in less degree are Nain and Okak, though all three have fir-trees in their neighbourhood.  Ramah and Hebron are beyond the limit of even these hardy evergreens, and the latter looks very bleak and rocky.  Pleasing as is the first impression of Zoar, the conviction soon grows upon one that the site has its serious disadvantages.  First and foremost among these is the fact that it is not favourable to success in sealing and fishing, so that it is not easy for the inhabitants to make a livelihood.

The pretty mission-house affords convenient accommodation for two missionary families.  It is, as usual, connected with the church by a covered passage.  To the right of these buildings the little Eskimo village stretches along the shore, to their left are situated the well-stocked mission-gardens, from which pleasant paths have been made through the woods beyond.  Between the church and the rocky beach stands the store, and not far off the salt-house and the boat-house.  The powder-house is always situated on some rock at a safe distance from the station, for the Eskimoes burn a considerable quantity of this dangerous material in their ceaseless war with seals, walrusses, reindeer, and other animals, including an occasional black or white bear.

A CLIMB TO THE TOP OF THE SHIP HILL AT ZOAR.

The ascent to the spot whence the approach of the ships can best be descried is by no means so easily accomplished at Zoar as at Hopedale.  But the hour’s stiff climb is richly rewarded by a magnificent prospect.  Our path lies first through the fir woods, then over a bare plain on which tufts of beautiful and very variegated mosses alternate with rocks and withered roots.  This is evidently the site of a forest, which at no very distant date has been killed by the terrible climate.  Up again through low thick brushwood and over great rocks, till at last we reach the summit.  Seaward we can see the course by which the “Harmony” came in.  Northward