Turning off into the second Allee of the triangle, we find ourselves presently in view of the Casino, which stands back in a park of its own, set in trees, and possessing a theatre and concert-room, drawing-room or conversation-hall, and the usual cafe and reading-apartments.  There is opera every second night and a small daily entrance-charge to the building, which may be compounded by purchasing a ticket for the month or the season.

The remaining avenue crosses back to the beginning of the first, ending with a long building given up to a species of universal bazaar, whose divisions and stands, festooned with crimson cambric, display confectionery, worsted goods, paper-weights of Pyrenean marbles, and nick-nacks of high and low degree.  Opposite is a large store comfortingly called “Old England”; it augurs the presence and patronage of at least a few of the British race at Luchon, and offers a homelike stock of Anglo-Saxon goods.  The walk has brought us out once more at the corner facing our hotel, and the hour for table-d’hote strikes elfinly on the ear.

V.

Luchon owes much to one man.  This was a certain Intendant of the province and of Bigorre arid Bearn, who lived about the middle of the last century and was the most practical and enterprising governor the region ever had.  The Luchonnais honor the name of the Baron d’Etigny.  He believed in his Pyrenees; he believed in their future, and set himself to speeding it with all his heart.  He not only expended his salary but his private fortune; he wrought extraordinary changes in facilities both for trade and travel, and, curiously enough, made an extraordinary number of enemies in doing so.  Towns and districts were spurred up to their duty; tree-nurseries established, agriculture stimulated, sheep and merinos and blooded horses imported for breeding; lawlessness found itself, suddenly under ban; and in especial, paths and roads were cut through the country in all directions, two hundred leagues of them, opening up to trade and fashion spot after spot only half accessible before.  Thus Eaux Chaudes, Cauterets, St. Sauveur, Bareges, Luchon, previously gained only by footways, were by D’Etigny made accessible for wheeled vehicles; uncertain trails were made over into good bridle-paths; and routes also over some of the cols were begun which have been since gathered up into the sweep of the Route Thermale.

On Luchon particularly, D’Etigny’s kind offices fell; and Luchon resented them the most acridly.  But the fostering hand was quite able to close into a fist.  D’Etigny pushed his plans firmly, despite opposition.  Pending the construction of a road from Montrejeau opening full access to the valley, the town itself was taken in hand.  The main street, now the Allee d’Etigny, was projected; the springs,—­from which the town was then some little, distance away,—­were rehabilitated; and to replace the rough path leading to them he proceeded