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10 harness satin

Straight draw, counter 3.

[Illustration:  Fig. 48]

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[Page 37] 11 harness satin

Skip draw, counter 5.

[Illustration:  Fig. 49]

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12 harness satin

Skip draw, counter 5.

[Illustration:  Fig. 50]

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[Page 38]
16 harness satin

On 2 sections of 8 shafts each, drawn end and end, counter 7.

[Illustration:  Fig. 51]

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[Page 39]
8 harness satin, warp effect.

Straight draw, counter 3.

[Illustration:  Fig. 52]

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IRREGULAR SATINS

Satin Turc.

On 4 shafts straight through.

[Illustration:  Fig. 53]

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[Page 40]
Satin a la Reine

On 6 shafts straight draw.

[Illustration:  Fig. 54]

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[Page 41]
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DERIVATIVE WEAVES

#1.  From the Taffeta#

Royale is a modification of the regular Gros de Tours, inasmuch as the rib line, which in the latter runs straight across the cloth, is broken off after a given number of warp-threads.  These groups, which may comprise 8, 12 or more threads, will interlace each one pick higher than the preceding one.

Royale of 8 ends

On 2 sections of 4 shafts each.

[Illustration:  Fig. 55]

* * * *

Velours Ottoman or Faille francaise.

In order to obtain a broader rib than that of Gros de Tours, and at the same time to lend firmness to the fabric, we add to the ground warp, which forms the ribs, another or binder warp, which works continually taffeta,
          
                                                     [Page 42]
while the ground warp changes only every 3 or 4 picks for the rib.

Faille francaise.

4 ends of ground on the first section of 8 shafts, skip draw.
1 " binder " second " 2 "

[Illustration:  Fig. 56]

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Velours Ottoman without a Binder-warp.

In this weave, of which Fig. 57 illustrates a specimen, comprising 8 warp-threads and 32 picks in a repeat, the rib contains 4 picks.  Of the 8 warp-threads, 3 float over and 3 under the rib, while the 2 others bind taffeta, which latter function is executed by 2 other threads in the next rib.

[Page 43] [Illustration:  Fig. 57]

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