to chew them without making a noise somewhat similar to walking on a shingly beach.  In modern days, however, we have arrived at a stage of civilisation in which, as a rule, we use soft French lettuces instead of the hard gingham-shaped vegetables which somehow or other our grandfathers ate for supper with a whole lobster, seasoned with about half a pint of vinegar, and then slept none the worse for the performance.  The first point for consideration, if we wish to have a good salad, is to have the lettuces crisp and dry.  Old-fashioned French cookery-books direct that the lettuce should never be washed.  The stalks should be cut off, the outside leaves removed and thrown away, and the lettuce itself should then be pulled in pieces with the fingers, and each piece wiped with a clean cloth.  This is not always practicable, but the principle remains the same.  You can wash the lettuce leaves without bruising them.  You can dry them by shaking them up lightly in a large clean cloth, and you can spread them out and let them get dry an hour or two before they are dressed.

Another important point to be borne in mind is that a salad should never be dressed till just before it is wanted to be eaten.  If by chance you put by the remains of a dressed salad, it is good for nothing the next morning.  Finally, the oil must be pure olive oil of the best quality, and to ensure this it should bear the name of some well-known firm.  A good deal of the oil sold simply as salad oil, bearing no name, is adulterated, sometimes with cotton-seed oil.

SALAD, FRENCH LETTUCE, PLAIN.—­Clean one or more French lettuces (throw away all the leaves that are decayed or bruised), place these in a salad-bowl, and, supposing we have sufficient for two persons, dress the salad as follows:—­Put a saltspoonful of salt and half a saltspoonful of pepper into a tablespoon.  Fill the tablespoon up with oil, stir the pepper and salt up with a fork, and pour it over the lettuce.  Now add another tablespoonful of oil, and then toss the lettuce leaves lightly together with a spoon and fork.  Allow one tablespoonful of oil to each person.  This salad would suffice for two.  Be sure and mix the lettuce and oil well together before you add any vinegar.  The reason of this is that if you add the vinegar first it would soak into the lettuce leaves, making one part more acid than another.  Having well mixed up the lettuce and oil, add half a tablespoonful of vinegar.  Mix it once more, and the salad is dressed.

In France they always add to the lettuce, before it is dressed, two or three finely chopped fresh tarragon leaves.  Dried tarragon can be used, but it is not equal to fresh.  If you have no tarragon it is a great improvement to use tarragon vinegar instead of ordinary vinegar.  Tarragon vinegar is sold by all grocers at sixpence per bottle.

It is also often customary to rub the salad-bowl with a bead of garlic, or rub a piece of crust of bread with garlic, and toss this piece of crust up with the salad after it has been dressed.  Garlic should never be chopped up, but only used as stated above.