Oskar Davidsen of Copenhagen, whose five-foot menu lists 186 superb sandwiches and snacks, each with a character all its own, perfected the Ham-Cam base for a flock of fancy ham sandwiches, open-faced on rye or white, soft or crisp, sweet or sour, almost any one-way slice you desire.  He uses as many contrasting kinds of bread as possible, and his butter varies from salt to fresh and whipped.  The Ham-Cam base involves “a juicy, tender slice of freshly boiled, mild-cured ham” with imported Camembert spread on the ham as thick as velvet.

The Ham-Cam is built up with such splendors as “goose liver paste and Madeira wine jelly,” “fried calves’ kidney and remoulade,” “Bombay curry salad,” “bird’s liver and fried egg,” “a slice of red roast beef” and more of that red Madeira jelly, with anything else you say, just so long as it does credit to Camembert on ham.

P Pickled Camembert

Butter a thin slice of rye or pumpernickel and spread with ripe imported Camembert, when in season (which isn’t summer).  Make a mixture of sweet, sour and dill pickles, finely chopped, and spread it on.  Top this with a thin slice of white bread for pleasing contrast with the black.

Q Queijo da Serra Sandwich

On generous rounds of French “flute” or other crunchy, crusty white bread place thick portions of any good Portuguese cheese made of sheep’s milk “in the mountains.”  This last translates back into Queijo da Serra, the fattest, finest cheese in the world—­on a par with fine Greek Feta.  Bead the open-faced creamy cheese lightly with imported capers, and you’ll say it’s scrumptious.

R Roquefort Nut

Butter hot toast and cover with a thickish slice of genuine Roquefort cheese.  Sprinkle thickly with genuine Hungarian paprika.  Put in moderate oven for about 6 minutes.  Finish it off with chopped pine nuts, almonds, or a mixture thereof.

S Smoky Sandwich and Sturgeon-smoked Sandwich

     Skin some juicy little, jolly little sprats, lay on thin rye, or
     a slice of miniature-loaf rye studded with caraway, spread with
     sweet butter and cover with a slice of smoked cheese.

Hickory is preferred for most of the smoking in America.  In New York the best smoked cheese, whether from Canada or nearer home, is usually cured in the same room with sturgeon.  Since this king of smoked fish imparts some of its regal savor to the Cheddar, there is a natural affinity peculiarly suited to sandwiching as above.

Smoked salmon, eel, whitefish or any other, is also good with cheese smoked with hickory or anything with a salubrious savor, while a sandwich of smoked turkey with smoked cheese is out of this world.  We accompany it with a cup of smoky Lapsang Soochong China tea.

T Tangy Sandwich