[Footnote B:  (from Cheese Cookery, by Helmut Ripperger)]

This is the famous cheese soup of the Engadine and little known in this country.  One of its seasonings is nutmeg and until one has used it in cheese dishes, it is hard to describe how perfectly it gives that extra something.  The recipe, as given, is for each plate, but there is no reason why the old-fashioned tureen could not be used and the quantities simply increased.

Put a slice of stale French bread, toasted or not, into a soup plate and cover it with 4 tablespoons of grated or shredded Swiss cheese.  Place another slice of bread on top of this and pour over it some boiling milk.  Cover the plate and let it stand for several minutes.  Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg.  Serve topped with browned, hot butter.  Use whole nutmeg and grate it freshly.

WITH A CHEESE SHAKER ON THE TABLE

Italians are so dependent on cheese to enrich all their dishes, from soups to spaghetti—­and indeed any vegetable—­that a shaker of grated Parmesan, Romano or reasonable substitute stands ready at every table, or is served freshly grated on a side dish.  Thus any Italian soup might be called a cheese soup, but we know of only one, the great minestrone, in which cheese is listed as an indispensable ingredient along with the pasta, peas, onion, tomatoes, kidney beans, celery, olive oil, garlic, oregano, potatoes, carrots, and so forth.

Likewise, a chunk of melting or toasting cheese is essential in the Fritto Misto, the finest mixed grill we know, and it’s served up as a separate tidbit with the meats.

Italians grate on more cheese for seasoning than any other people, as the French are wont to use more wine in cooking.

 Pfeffernuesse and Caraway

The gingery little “pepper nuts,” pfeffernuesse, imported from Germany in barrels at Christmastime, make one of the best accompaniments to almost any kind of cheese.  For contrast try a dish of caraway.

 Diablotins

Small rounds of buttered bread or toast heaped with a mound of grated cheese and browned in the oven is a French contribution.

CHEESE OMELETS

 Cheddar Omelet

Make a plain omelet your own way.  When the mixture has just begun to cook, dust over it evenly 1/2 cup grated Cheddar. (a) Use young Cheddar if you want a mild, bland omelet (b) Use sharp, aged Cheddar for a full-flavored one. (c) Sprinkle (b) with Worcestershire sauce to make what might be called a Wild Omelet.  Cook as usual.  Fold and serve.

 Parmesan Omelet (mild)

     Cook as above, but use 1/4 cup only of Parmesan, grated fine, in
     place of the 1/2 cup Cheddar.

 Parmesan Omelet (full flavored)

As above, but use 1/2 cup Parmesan, finely grated, as follows:  Sift 1/4 cup of the Parmesan into your egg mixture at the beginning and dust on the second 1/4 cup evenly, just as the omelet begins to set.

 A Meal-in-One Omelet