this part of the street there are, of course, oysters,
and grapes, and oranges, and cactus-pulps, and cutlery,
and iced drinks to sell at various booths; and Commerce
is exceedingly dramatic and boisterous over the bargains
she offers; and equally, of course, murderous drinking
shops lurk at intervals along the pavement, and lure
into their recesses mariners of foreign birth, briefly
ashore from their ships. The New York Coffee
House is there to attract my maritime fellow-countrymen,
and I know that if I look into that place of refreshment
I shall see their honest, foolish faces flushed with
drink, and with the excitement of buying the least
they can for the most money. Poor souls! they
shall drink that pleasant morning away in the society
of Antonino the best of Neapolitans, and at midnight,
emptied of every soldo, shall arise, wrung with a fearful
suspicion of treachery, and wander away under Antonino’s
guidance to seek the protection of the Consul; or,
taking the law into their own hands, shall proceed
to clean out,
more Americano, the New York Coffee
House, when Antonino shall develop into one of the
landlords, and deal them the most artistic stab in
Naples: handsome, worthy Antonino; tender-eyed,
subtle, pitiless!
Where the road to Herculaneum leaves the bay and its
seafaring life, it enters, between the walls of lofty,
fly-blown houses, a world of maccaroni haunted by
foul odors, beggars, poultry, and insects. There
were few people to be seen on the street, but through
the open doors of the lofty fly-blown houses we saw
floury legions at work making maccaroni; grinding
maccaroni, rolling it, cutting it, hanging it in mighty
skeins to dry, and gathering it when dried, and putting
it away. By the frequency of the wine-shops we
judged that the legions were a thirsty host, and by
the number of the barber-surgeons’ shops, that
they were a plethoric and too full-blooded host.
The latter shops were in the proportion of one to
five of the former; and the artist who had painted
their signs had indulged his fancy in wild excesses
of phlebotomy. We had found that, as we came
south from Venice, science grew more and more sanguinary
in Italy, and more and more disposed to let blood.
At Ferrara, even, the propensity began to be manifest
on the barbers’ signs, which displayed the device
of an arm lanced at the elbow, and jetting the blood
by a neatly described curve into a tumbler. Further
south the same arm was seen to bleed at the wrist
also; and at Naples an exhaustive treatment of the
subject appeared, the favorite study of the artist
being to represent a nude figure reclining in a genteel
attitude on a bank of pleasant greensward, and bleeding
from the elbows, wrists, hands, ankles, and feet.