The proverb well says there is no rose without a thorn, and it might add that the rose would be less appreciable were there no thorn.  Half our pleasures have their zest in the toil through which they are gained.  In travel, the little hardships and vexations bring the novelties and comforts into stronger relief, and make the voyager’s happiness more real.  It is an excellent trait of human nature that the traveler can remember with increased vividness the pleasing features of his journey while he forgets their opposites.  Privations and discomforts appeal directly to the body; their effect once passed the physical system courts oblivion.  Pleasures reach our higher being, which experiences, enjoys, and remembers.

[Illustration:  TAIL PIECE]

CHAPTER XXII.

Stratensk is neither large nor handsome.  The most I saw of it was near the hotel whither we went from the boat.  The rooms we were shown into faced the river, and had high walls decorated with a few pictures.  My apartment had a brick stove in one corner, a table, three or four chairs, and a wide sofa or cushioned bench without a back.  This last article served as bed by night and seat by day.  No bed clothing is furnished in a Siberian hotel, each traveler being expected to carry his own supply.

The government has a foundry and repair shop two miles above the town, where several steamers pass the winter and have their machinery repaired.  Immediately on arrival we sent to request Mr. Lovett, the gentleman in charge of the works, to call upon us.  He responded promptly, and came while we were at supper.  Being English and with a slight tendency to embonpoint, he readily accepted several bottles of ‘Bass & Co.’ that remained from our small stores.  He was accompanied by Captain Ivashinsoff, who spoke English easily and well.  His knowledge of it was obtained rather romantically as the story was told me.

Two years earlier this officer happened in Hong Kong and during his stay an American vessel arrived.  Her captain had been seriously ill for some weeks and totally incapable of duty.  The first mate died on the voyage, and the second was not equal to the difficulties of navigation.  The captain was accompanied by his daughter, who had been several years at sea and learned the mysteries of Bowditch more as a pastime than for anything else.  In the dilemma she assumed control of the ship, making the daily observation and employing the mate as executive officer.  When they reached Hong Kong the captain was just recovering.  The young woman came on shore, saw and conquered the Russian.  Neither spoke the other’s language, and their conversation was conducted in French.  After their marriage they began to study, and had made such progress that I found the captain speaking good English, and learned that the lady was equally fluent in Russian.  She was living at Stratensk at the time of my visit, and I greatly regretted that our short stay prevented my seeing her.  She was a native of Chelsea, Massachusetts, and was said to enjoy her home on the Amoor.