Some time after I was traveling in these regions I made arrangements to visit the mission station of the China Inland Mission, some days from Yuen-nan-fu, where a special work has recently been formed among the Li-su tribe. Owing to a later arrival at the capital than I had expected, however, I could not keep my appointment, and as there were reports of trouble in that area the British Consul-General did not wish me to travel off the main road. It is highly encouraging to learn that a magnificent missionary work is being done among the Li-su, all the more gratifying because of the enormous difficulties which have already been overcome by the pioneering workers. At least one European, if not more, has mastered the language, and the China Inland Mission are expecting great things to eventuate. It is only by long and continued residence among these peoples, throwing in one’s lot with them and living their life, that any absolutely reliable data regarding them will be forthcoming. And this so few, of course, are able to do.
[Footnote BB: The town by the double suspension bridge over the Salwen.]
[Footnote BC: The poisoned arrows and the cross-bow are used also by the Miao, and the author has seen very much the same thing among the Sakai of the Malay Peninsula.]
TENGYUEH (MOMIEN) TO BHAMO IN UPPER BURMA
Last stages of long journey. Characteristics of the country. Sham and Kachins. Author’s dream of civilization. British pride. End of paved roads. Mountains cease. A confession of foiled plans. Nantien as a questionable fort. About the Shans. Village squabble, and how it ended. Absence of disagreement in Shan language. Charming people, but lazy. Experience with Shan servant. At Chiu-Ch’eng. New Year festivities. After-dinner diversions. Author as a medico. Ingratitude of the Chinese: some instances.
The Shan, the Kachin and the abominable betel quid! That quid which makes the mouth look bloody, broadens the lips, lays bare and blackens the teeth, and makes the women hideous. Such are the unfailing characteristics of the country upon which we are now entering.
By the following stages I worked my way wearily to the end of my long walking journey:—