Supper being prepared and discussed, our landlady informed us that she had a husband, who was absent, but would return in the course of the night, and, if he found strange men in the house, he would be much offended with her.  She had therefore directed her muchachas to sweep out one of the deserted and half-ruined rooms on the opposite square, to which we could remove our baggage, and in which we could lodge during the night; and as soon as the necessary preparations were made, we retired to our dismal apartment.  The “compound of villanous smells” which saluted our nostrils when we entered our dormitory for the night augured unfavourably for repose.  The place had evidently been the abode of horses, cattle, pigs, and foul vermin of every description.  But with the aid of a dark-coloured tallow-candle, which gave just light enough to display the murkiness and filth surrounding us, we spread our beds in the cleanest places, and laid down to rest.  Distance travelled, 18 miles.

CHAPTER III.

  Armies of fleas
  Leave the mission
  Clover
  Wild mustard
  A carreta
  Family travelling
  Arrive at Pueblo de San Jose
  Capt.  Fisher
  Description of the Pueblo
  The embarcadero
  Beautiful and fertile valley of the Pueblo
  Absence of architectural taste in California
  Town squirrels
  Fruit garden
  Grapes
  Tropical fruits
  Gaming rooms
  Contrast between California and American gamesters
  Leave San Jose
  Beautiful avenue
  Mission of Santa Clara
  Rich but neglected lands
  Effects of a bad government
  A senora on the road-side
  Kindness of Californian women
  Fast riding
  Cruel treatment of horses
  Arrive at the mission of San Francisco
  A poor but hospitable family
  Arrive at the town of San Francisco
  W.A.  Leidesdorff, Esq., American vice-consul
  First view of the bay of San Francisco
  Muchachos and Muchachas
  Capt.  Montgomery
  U.S. sloop-of-war, Portsmouth
  Town of San Francisco; its situation, appearance, population
  Commerce of California
  Extortion of the government and traders.

September 19.—­Several Californians came into the mission during the night or early this morning; among them the husband of our hostess, who was very kind and cordial in his greetings.

While our man Jack was saddling and packing the mules, they gathered around us to the number of a dozen or more, and were desirous of trading their horses for articles of clothing; articles which many of them appeared to stand greatly in need of, but which we had not to part from.  Their pertinacity exceeded the bounds of civility, as I thought; but I was not in a good humour, for the fleas, bugs, and other vermin, which infested our miserable lodgings, had caused me a sleepless night, by goring my body until the blood