of Constance in its sweep.  The water looked dark and wild, and the whole scene had a tint that strongly reminded me of the character of Germanic mysteriousness.  We must have been at a great elevation, though the mountains were not prominent objects; on the contrary, the eye ranged until it found the horizon, as at sea, in the curvature of the earth.  The rills near us flowed into the Rhine, and, traversing half Europe, emptied themselves into the North Sea; while the stream that wound its way through the valley below, took a south-easterly direction towards the confines of Asia.  One gets grand and pleasing images in the associations that are connected with the contemplation of these objects.

From this point we began to descend, shorn of our honours in the way of quadrupeds, for it was with a good deal of difficulty we got three horses at the next relay.  Thus is it with life, in which at one moment we are revelling in abundance, and at the next suffering with want.  We got along, however, as in life, in the best manner we could, and after driving through a pretty and uneven country, that gradually descended, we suddenly plunged down to the banks of the Rhine, and found ourselves once more before an inn-door, in Switzerland!

SECOND VISIT

TO

SWITZERLAND.

LETTER XV.

A Swiss Inn.—­Cataract of the Rhine.—­Canton of Zurich.—­Town of Zurich.—­Singular Concurrence.—­Formidable Ascent.—­Exquisite View.—­Einsiedeln—­The Convent.—­“Par exemple.”—­Shores of the Lake of Zug.—­The Chemin Creux.—­Water Excursion to Alpnach.—­Lake of Lungern.—­Lovely Landscape.—­Effects of Mists on the prospect.—­Natural Barometer.—­View from the Brunig.—­Enter the great Canton of Berne.—­An Englishman’s Politics.—­Our French Companion.—­The Giesbach.—­Mountain Music.—­Lauterbrunnen.—­Grindewald.—­Rising of the Waters in 1830.—­Anecdote.—­Excursion on the Lake to Thoun.

Dear ——­,

We had sought refuge on the Rhine, from the tameness and monotony of Wurtemberg!  I dare say the latter country has many beautiful districts, that it contains much to admire and much to awaken useful reflection, but to the mere passer-by it is not a land of interest.  Like a boat that has unexpectedly got into a strong adverse current, we had put our helm down and steered out of it, to the nearest shore.  Here we were then, and it became necessary to say where we should be next.  My own eyes were turned wistfully towards the east, following the road by the Lake of Constance, Inspruck, and Saltzbourg, to Vienna; but several of our party were so young when we were in Switzerland, in 1828, that it seemed ungracious to refuse them this favourable opportunity to carry away lasting impressions of a region that has no parallel.  It was, therefore, settled before we slept, again to penetrate the cantons next morning.