trousers and jacket of white silk, with fez-caps on their heads.  On each side of the ship there are fourteen of these rowers, under whose vigorous exertions the barge flies forward over wave and billow like a dolphin.  The beautifully regular movements of the sailors have a fine effect.  The oars all dip into the water with one stroke, the rowers rise as one man, and fall back into their places in the same perfect time.

A number of elegant barges and kaiks follow the procession.  The flags of the Turkish fleet and merchant-ships are hoisted, and twenty-one cannons thunder forth a salutation to the Sultan.  He does not stay long in the mosque, and usually proceeds to visit a barrack or some other public building.  When the monarch goes by water to the mosque, he generally returns also in his barge; if he goes by land, he returns in the same manner.

The most popular walks in Pera are “the great and little Campo,” which may be termed “burying-places in cypress-groves.”  It is a peculiar custom of the Turks, which we hardly find among any other nation, that all their feasts, walks, business-transactions, and even their dwellings, are in the midst of graves.  Every where, in Constantinople, Pera, Galata, etc., one can scarcely walk a few paces without passing several graves surrounded by cypresses.  We wander continually between the living and the dead; but within four and twenty hours I was quite reconciled to the circumstance.  During the night-time I could pass the graves with as little dread as if I were walking among the houses of the living.  Seen from a distance, these numerous cypress-woods give to the town a peculiar fairy-like appearance; I can think of nothing with which I could compare it.  Every where the tall trees appear, but the tombs are mostly hidden from view.

It took a longer time before I could accustom myself to the multitude of ownerless dogs, which the stranger encounters at all corners, in every square and every street.  They are of a peculiarly hideous breed, closely resembling the jackal.  During the daytime they are not obnoxious, being generally contented enough if they are allowed to sleep undisturbed in the sun, and to devour their prey in peace.  But at night they are not so quiet.  They bark and howl incessantly at each other, as well as at the passers-by, but do not venture an attack, particularly if you are accompanied by a servant carrying a lantern and a stick.  Among themselves they frequently have quarrels and fights, in which they sometimes lose their lives.  They are extremely jealous if a strange dog approaches their territory, namely the street or square of which they have possession.  On such an intruder they all fall tooth and nail, and worry him until he either seeks safety in flight or remains dead on the spot.  It is therefore a rare circumstance for any person to have a house-dog with him in the streets.  It would be necessary to carry the creature continually,