same time that he should not have it back until he had given me my change, adding that I would give the men a gratuity myself.  He shouted and stormed, and kept on asking for the money.  I took no heed of him, but continued quietly packing up my things.  Seeing, at length, that nothing was to be done with me, he gave me back my half-dollar; whereupon we parted good friends.  This affair concluded, I had to look about for a couple of asses; one for myself, and another for my luggage.  If I had stepped ashore I should have been almost torn in pieces by contending donkey-drivers, each of whom would have lugged me in a different direction.  I therefore remained quietly for a time in my cabin, until the drivers ceased to suspect that any one was there.  In the meantime I had been looking upon the shore from the cabin-window, and speculating upon which animal I should take; then I quickly rushed out, and before the proprietors of the long-eared steeds were aware of my intention, I had seized one by the bridle and pointed to another.  This concluded the matter at once; for the proprietors of the chosen animals defended me from the rest, and returned with me to the boat to carry my baggage.

A fellow came up and arranged my little trunk on the back of the ass.  For this trifling service I gave him a piastre; but observing that I was alone, he probably thought he could soon intimidate me into giving whatever he demanded.  So he returned me my piastre, and demanded four.  I took the money, and told him (for fortunately he understood a little Italian) that if he felt dissatisfied with this reward he might accompany me to the consulate, where his four piastres would be paid so soon as it appeared that he had earned them.  He shouted and blustered, just as the captain had done; but I remained deaf, and rode forward towards the custom-house.  Then he came down to three piastres, then to two, and finally said he would be content with one, which I threw to him.  When I reached the custom-house, hands were stretched out towards me from all sides; I gave something to the chief person, and let the remaining ones clamour on.  When, after experiencing these various annoyances, I rode on towards the town, a new obstacle arose.  My Arab guide inquired whither he should conduct me.  I endeavoured in vain to explain to him where I wanted to go; he could not be made to understand me.  Nothing now remained for me but to accost every well-dressed Oriental whom I met, until I should find one who could understand either French or Italian.  The third person I addressed fortunately knew something of the latter language, and I begged him to tell my guide to take me to the Austrian consulate.  This was done, and my troubles concluded.

A ride of three quarters of an hour in a very broad handsome street, planted with a double row of a kind of acacia altogether strange to me, among a crowd of men, camels, asses, etc., brought me to the town, the streets of which are in general narrow.  There is so much noise and crowding every where, that one would suppose a tumult had broken out.  But as I approached, the immense mass always opened as if by magic, and I pursued my way without hindrance to the consulate, which lies hidden in a little narrow blind alley.