every night to the spot where she was disinterred.
Baldwin therefore understood that it was his duty to
erect a chapel for her reception, and he accordingly
built that which is now standing, and made a donation
of the edifice to the Bishop of Bayeux, whose successor
receives the mass-pennies and oblations at this very
day. Some idea of the architecture of the building
may be formed from the inclosed sketch of the western
front. During the morning mass, the chapel was
crowded with women, young and old, who were singing
the litany of the Virgin in a low and plantive tone.
A hymn of praise was also chaunted. It was composed
by the learned Bishop Huet, and it is inscribed upon
a black marble tablet, which was placed in the chapel
by his direction. The country women of the Saxon
shore possess a very peculiar physiognomy, denoting
that the race is unmixed. The Norman-Saxon damsel
is full and well made, her complexion is very fair,
she has light hair, long eyelashes, and tranquil placid
features; her countenance has an air of sullen pouting
tenderness, such as we often find in the women represented
in the sculptures and paintings of the middle ages.
And all the girls are so much alike, that it might
have been supposed that they all were sisters.
As to our Lady, she is gaily attired in a Cashemire
shawl, and completely covered with glaring amber necklaces
and beads, and ribband knots, and artificial flowers.
Many votive offerings are affixed round her shrine.
The pilgrim is particularly desired to notice a pair
of crutches, which testify the cure of their former
owner, who lately hobbled to the Virgin from Falaise,
as a helpless cripple, and who quitted her in perfect
health. Of course the Virgin has operated all
the usual standard miracles, including one which may
be suspected to be rather a work of supererogation,
that of restoring speech to a matron who had lost her
tongue, which had been cut out by her jealous husband.
Miracles of every kind are very frequently performed,
yet, if the truth must be told, they are worked, as
it were, by deputy, for the real original Virgin suffered
so much during the revolution, that it has been thought
advisable to keep her in the sacristy, and the statue
now seen is a restoration of recent workmanship.
In order to conciliate the sailors and fishermen of
the coast, the Virgin has entered into partnership
with St. Nicholas, whose image is impressed on the
reverse of the medal representing her, and which is
sold to the pilgrims.
The country about La Delivrande is flat, but industriously
cultivated and thickly peopled. The villages
are numerous and substantial. From a point at
the extremity of the green lane which leads onward
from La Delivrande, six or eight church spires may
be counted, all within a league’s distance.
By the advice of the Abbe de la Rue, we proceeded to
Bernieres, which is close to the sea. The mayor
of the commune offered his services with great civility,
and accompanied us to the church, which, as he told