fortification on the summit, when a little boy joined our party, either out of curiosity, or in hopes of getting a fish-hook from us—­a thing the natives are continually asking for; but as we had a man with us who spoke the language fluently, we did not much regard the boy’s guidance, though to us it speedily became of great importance.  We were taking a short cut, to make a quick ascent to the top of the hill, when the little fellow uttered a cry of horror.  Our interpreter asked him what he meant, when he pointed his finger forward, and told him to look, for the ground was tabooed.  We did as he desired us, but beheld nothing particular, till he showed us, in one of the trees, among the branches, a large bunch of something, but we could not make out what it was.  This, he told us, was the body of a chief, then undergoing the process of decomposition, previous to interment, which process is witnessed by men appointed for that purpose, who alone are permitted to approach the spot.  The ground all round is tabooed, so that, had it not been for the interference of our young guide, we should certainly have been placed in a most distressing situation; and it is a question if our ignorance of their customs would have been considered a sufficient excuse for our offence.

The top of this hill was level and square, and was capable of containing several hundred warriors.  It was cut into slopes all round, and fortified by stockades in every direction, which rendered it impregnable.  The natives assured me its strength had been often tried.  The famous warrior Hongi had attacked it several times, but had always been defeated with great loss.  After inspecting this fortification, which excited our admiration, we proceeded through the village at the bottom of the hill.  Nearly the whole of the inhabitants were out working in the fields.  We entered several of their habitations, and found all their property exposed and unguarded.  Even their muskets and powder, which they prize above everything, were open to our inspection, so little idea of robbery have they amongst themselves.  But as there are many hogs and dogs roaming at large through their villages, they are very careful to fence their dwellings round with wicker work, to preserve them from the depredations of these animals; and as the houses are extremely low, they have very much the appearance of bird cages or rabbit hutches.  Their storehouses are generally placed upon poles, a few feet from the ground, and tabooed or consecrated.  Great taste and ingenuity are displayed in carving and ornamenting these depositories.  I made drawings from several of them, which were entirely covered with carving; and some good attempts at groups of figures, as large as life, plainly showed the dawning of the art of sculpture amongst them.  Many of the attempts of the New Zealanders in that art are quite as good, if not better, than various specimens I have seen of the first efforts of the early Egyptians.