on to Ghent by the Ecloo Road, one of the main thoroughfares of Belgium.  Beyond an occasional sentry, there was nothing to indicate that we were passing through a country at war, except that we rarely saw a man of military age.  All were women, old men, or children.  Certainly the men of Belgium had risen to the occasion.  The women were doing everything—­working in the fields, tending the cattle, driving the market-carts and the milk-carts with their polished brass cans.  After leaving Ghent, the men came into view, for at Lokeren and St. Nicholas were important military stations, whilst nearer to Antwerp very extensive entrenchments and wire entanglements were being constructed.  The trenches were most elaborate, carefully constructed and covered in; and I believe that all the main approaches to the city were defended in the same way.  Antwerp could never have been taken by assault, but with modern artillery it would have been quite easy to destroy it over the heads of its defenders.  The Germans have probably by now rendered it impregnable, for though in modern war it is impossible to defend one’s own cities, the same does not apply to the enemy.  In future, forts will presumably be placed at points of strategic importance only, and as far as possible from towns.

Passing through the western fortifications, we came upon the long bridge of boats which had been thrown across the Scheldt.  The river is here more than a quarter of a mile wide, and the long row of sailing barges was most picturesque.  The roadway was of wooden planks, and only just wide enough to allow one vehicle to pass at a time, the tall spars of the barges rising on each side.  It is strange that a city of such wealth as Antwerp should not have bridged a river which, after all, is not wider than the Thames.  We were told that a tunnel was in contemplation.  The bridge of boats was only a tribute to the necessities of war.  We did not dream that a fortnight later it would be our one hope of escape.

II.  The Hospital

Antwerp is one of the richest cities in Europe, and our hospital was placed in its wealthiest quarter.  The Boulevard Leopold is a magnificent avenue, with a wide roadway in the centre flanked by broad paths planted with trees.  Beyond these, again, on each side is a paved road with a tram-line, whilst a wide pavement runs along the houses.  There are many such boulevards in Antwerp, and they give to the city an air of spaciousness and opulence in striking contrast to the more utilitarian plan of London or of most of our large towns.  We talk a great deal about fresh air, but we are not always ready to pay for it.