and, near the centre of the city, the ruins of an ancient castle, built upon a crag.  The place, as we rode along, presented a shifting diorama of delightful views.  The hotel is at the extreme western end of the city, not far from its celebrated hot baths.  It is a new building, in European style, and being built high on the slope, commands one of the most glorious prospects I ever enjoyed from windows made with hands.  What a comfort it was to go up stairs into a clean, bright, cheerful room; to drop at full length on a broad divan; to eat a Christian meal; to smoke a narghileh of the softest Persian tobacco; and finally, most exquisite of all luxuries, to creep between cool, clean sheets, on a curtained bed, and find it impossible to sleep on account of the delicious novelty of the sensation!

At night, another storm came up from the Sea of Marmora.  Tremendous peals of thunder echoed in the gorges of Olympus and sharp, broad flashes of lightning gave us blinding glimpses of the glorious plain below.  The rain fell in heavy showers, but our tent-life was just closed, and we sat securely at our windows and enjoyed the sublime scene.

The sun, rising over the distant mountains of Isnik, shone full in my face, awaking me to a morning view of the valley, which, freshened by the night’s thunder-storm, shone wonderfully bright and clear.  After coffee, we went to see the baths, which are on the side of the mountain, a mile from the hotel.  The finest one, called the Kalputcha Hammam, is at the base of the hill.  The entrance hall is very large, and covered by two lofty domes.  In the centre is a large marble urn-shaped fountain, pouring out an abundant flood of cold water.  Out of this, we passed into an immense rotunda, filled with steam and traversed by long pencils of light, falling from holes in the roof.  A small but very beautiful marble fountain cast up a jet of cold water in the centre.  Beyond this was still another hall, of the same size, but with a circular basin, twenty-five feet in diameter, in the centre.  The floor was marble mosaic, and the basin was lined with brilliantly-colored tiles.  It was kept constantly full by the natural hot streams of the mountain.  There were a number of persons in the pool, but the atmosphere was so hot that we did not long disturb them by our curiosity.

We then ascended to the Armenian bath, which is the neatest of all, but it was given up to the women, and we were therefore obliged to go to a Turkish one adjoining.  The room into which we were taken was so hot that a violent perspiration immediately broke out all over my body, and by the time the delleks were ready to rasp me, I was as limp as a wet towel, and as plastic as a piece of putty.  The man who took me was sweated away almost to nothing; his very bones appeared to have become soft and pliable.  The water was slightly sulphureous, and the pailfuls which he dashed over my head were so hot that they produced the effect of a chill—­a violent