At Leefdael there must have been fighting, for some of the houses were gutted by shells.  At least two had been burned; and a big tin sign at a railroad crossing had become a tin colander where flying lead had sieved it.  In a beet patch beside one of the houses was a mound of fresh earth the length of a long man, with a cross of sticks at the head of it.  A Belgian soldier’s cap was perched on the upright and a scrap of paper was made fast to the cross arm; and two peasants stood there apparently reading what was written on the paper.  Later such sights as these were to become almost the commonest incidents of our countryside campaignings; but now we looked with all our eyes.

Except that the roadside ditches were littered with beer bottles and scraps of paper, and the road itself rutted by cannon wheels, we saw little enough after leaving Leefdael to suggest that an army had come this way until we were in the outskirts of Brussels.  In a tree-edged, grass-plotted boulevard at the edge of the Bois, toward Tervueren, cavalry had halted.  The turf was scarred with hoofprints and strewed with hay; and there was a row of small trenches in which the Germans had built their fires to do their cooking.  The sod, which had been removed to make these trenches, was piled in neat little terraces, ready to be put back; and care plainly had been taken by the troopers to avoid damaging the bark on the trunks of the ash and elm trees.

There it was—­the German system of warfare!  These Germans might carry on their war after the most scientifically deadly plan the world has ever known; they might deal out their peculiarly fatal brand of drumhead justice to all civilians who crossed their paths bearing arms; they might burn and waste for punishment; they might lay on a captured city and a whipped province a tribute of foodstuffs and an indemnity of money heavier than any civilized race has ever demanded of the cowed and conquered—­might do all these things and more besides—­but their common troopers saved the sods of the greensward for replanting and spared the boles of the young shade trees!  Next day we again left Brussels, the submissive, and made a much longer excursion under German auspices.  And, at length, after much travail, we landed in the German frontier city of Aix-la-Chapelle, where I wrote these lines.  There it was, two days after our arrival, that we heard of the fate of Louvain and of that pale little man, the burgomaster, who had survived his crisis of the nerves to die of a German bullet.

We wondered what became of the proprietor of the House of the Thousand Columns; and of the young Dutch tutor in the Berlitz School of Languages, who had served us as a guide and interpreter; and of the pretty, gentle little Flemish woman who brought us our meals in her clean, small restaurant round the corner from the Hotel de Ville; and of the kindly, red-bearded priest at the Church of Saint Jacques, who gave us ripe pears and old wine.