was a man of eighty.  Mr. Fraser of Balnain allows him to live in this hut, and keep sixty goats, for taking care of his woods, where he then was.  They had five children, the eldest only thirteen.  Two were gone to Inverness to buy meal[420]; the rest were looking after the goats.  This contented family had four stacks of barley, twenty-four sheaves in each.  They had a few fowls.  We were informed that they lived all the spring without meal, upon milk and curds and whey alone.  What they get for their goats, kids, and fowls, maintains them during the rest of the year.  She asked us to sit down and take a dram.  I saw one chair.  She said she was as happy as any woman in Scotland.  She could hardly speak any English except a few detached words.  Dr. Johnson was pleased at seeing, for the first time, such a state of human life.  She asked for snuff.  It is her luxury, and she uses a great deal.  We had none; but gave her sixpence a piece.  She then brought out her whiskey bottle.  I tasted it; as did Joseph and our guides, so I gave her sixpence more.  She sent us away with many prayers in Erse.

We dined at a publick house called the General’s Hut[421], from General Wade, who was lodged there when he commanded in the North.  Near it is the meanest parish Kirk I ever saw.  It is a shame it should be on a high road.  After dinner, we passed through a good deal of mountainous country.  I had known Mr. Trapaud, the deputy governour of Fort Augustus, twelve years ago, at a circuit at Inverness, where my father was judge.  I sent forward one of our guides, and Joseph, with a card to him, that he might know Dr. Johnson and I were coming up, leaving it to him to invite us or not[422].  It was dark when we arrived.  The inn was wretched.  Government ought to build one, or give the resident governour an additional salary; as in the present state of things, he must necessarily be put to a great expence in entertaining travellers.  Joseph announced to us, when we alighted, that the governour waited for us at the gate of the fort.  We walked to it.  He met us, and with much civility conducted us to his house.  It was comfortable to find ourselves in a well-built little square, and a neatly furnished house, in good company, and with a good supper before us; in short, with all the conveniences of civilised life in the midst of rude mountains.  Mrs. Trapaud, and the governour’s daughter, and her husband, Captain Newmarsh, were all most obliging and polite.  The governour had excellent animal spirits, the conversation of a soldier, and somewhat of a Frenchman, to which his extraction entitles him.  He is brother to General Cyrus Trapaud.  We passed a very agreeable evening.[423]

TUESDAY, AUGUST 31.