For the ordinary pedestrian, beautiful walks abound in the vicinity of nearly every Spa, but near St. Sauveur, Luchon, Eaux Chaudes, and Argeles they are, we think, most charming.  The roads on the whole are excellent, and the hotels, with hardly any exceptions, particularly clean and comfortable; and, with the one drawback of the bread (see Appendix D)—­which can be easily remedied—­the food is well cooked and well served.

It must be understood that the succeeding chapters only describe—­ or attempt to describe—­scenes that every one in moderate health can go and enjoy for themselves, and it is in the hope that a few more may be induced to visit the region about which they speak, that they have ever seen the light.  For accurate information about the mountains and the best means of ascending them, no better guide-books could be wanted than Count Russell’s ’Grandes Ascensions des Pyrenees’ [Footnote:  Hachette et Cie., Paris.] in French and English, and Mr. Chas. Packe’s ‘Guide to the Pyrenees’; [Footnote:  Longmans and Co., London.] while for information of all kinds Monsieur P. Joanne’s ‘Pyrenees,’ [Footnote:  Hachette et Cie., Paris.] in French, could hardly be surpassed.  For the ordinary traveller Mr. Black’s ‘South of France Summer Resorts, Pyrenees,’ &c., is a compact and useful companion; and for guidance in matters medical, Dr. Madden’s ‘Spas of the Pyrenees’ and Dr. Lee’s ’Baths of France’ are exceedingly valuable.

With these preliminary remarks we beg to refer the reader to our experiences of ‘A Spring in the Pyrenees.’

CHAPTER I.

PAU.

Trains and Steamers—­Bordeaux and its Hotels—­Lamothe—­Morcenx—­ Dax—­Puyoo—­Orthez—­First impressions of Pau—­The Hotels and Pensions—­Amusements—­Pension Colbert—­Making up parties for the Pyrenees—­The Place Royale and the view—­The Castle of Pau and its approaches—­Origin of name—­Historical notes—­The Towers—­Visiting hours—­The Tapestries—­The Wonderful Bedstead—­The Delusive Tortoiseshell Cradle—­The “Tour de la Monnaie”—­The Park—­The Billeres Plains—­Tennis and Golf—­The Route de Billeres and the Billeres Woods—­French Sportsmen—­Hunting—­Racing—­Lescar and its old Cathedral—­Fontaine de Marnieres—­The Bands—­The Pare Beaumont —­Ballooning—­The Casino—­Polo—­The Cemetery—­The Churches of St. Martin and St. Jacques—­The “Old World and the New”—­Rides and Drives—­to Betharram—­The Start—­Peasants and their ways—­Vines trained by the roadside—­Sour Grapes—­The “March of the Men of Garlic”—­Coarraze—­Henry IV.’s Castle—­Betharram—­The Ivied Bridge —­The Inn—­The “Via Crucis”—­Assat and Gelos—­The Coteaux—­ Perpignaa—­Sketching with a Donkey-cart—­Over the Coteaux to Gan—­ The Drive to Pietat—­Picnicking and Rejected Attentions—­The Church—­Feather Moss—­Bizanos—­Carnival time—­“Poor Pillicoddy”—­ “Idyllic Colbert.”

Few Winter Resorts have gained a greater celebrity than Pau, and its popularity yearly increases.  Fifty years ago its English visitors might have been counted by tens; to-day they must be reckoned by thousands.  But this is only during the winter and spring; in summer it is almost entirely deserted by foreigners, few people in fact, unless compelled by circumstances, staying after May has passed into June.