As we descended the splendid winding road at a rattling pace, with the slipper on the wheel, we quickly left barren trees and slopes behind, and even at Garin, that curious village built among the rocks, the silver birches were opening their leaves.  Passing in turn the villages of Cazaux, with its 12th century church, and St. Aventin, with its double-towered church of a similar date, also, we sped under most splendid avenues of sycamore, elm, lime, and ash, past dashing streams and bright flower-clothed slopes—­always descending—­till we entered Luchon:  Luchon surrounded by magnificent hills, Luchon guarded by the distant but ever-majestic snow summits, Luchon bathed in the scent of lilac and other sweets, Luchon cooled and beautified by avenues and squares of bright trees, and by gardens filled with the loveliest of shrubs and flowers.  Such was the Luchon presented to us as we drove through the splendid streets and reached our hotel.

CHAPTER X.

BAGNERES DE LUCHON.

The bathing establishment and its surroundings—­The lovely Allees—­Montauban church and cascade—­The Villa Russe and its genial host—­Various excursions—­Orphanage of Notre Dame de Rocher—­The Vallee du Lys—­The Rue d’Enfer and cascades—­A lively scene—­The view from Superbagneres—­Loading wood—­“The Oxen’s Appeal”—­Visit to the Orphanage—­A “holy” relic—­To Bosost—­St. Mamet—­“A Stumbling-block” —­Cascade of Sidonie—­Horse tricks and jockey dodges—­Lizards in flight—­Fashion on a donkey—­On the Portillon ’twixt France and Spain—­The Valley of Aran—­Snug Bosost—­A curious inn—­Children with artistic bent—­A bright pathway—­Missing much, but thankful still.

The most delightful of weather throughout our stay doubtless added greatly to our enjoyment of Luchon, and our willingness to agree with its title as “The Pearl of the Pyrenees “; and, in fact, to all people but those who love dust, noise, and fashion, this month of May is the pleasantest time of the year to go, see, and be happy.

The great bathing establishment, situated as it is in a lovely garden (Quinconces) with a charming lake overhung with the graceful weeping willows, and under the wooded sides of Superbagneres, seems to invite one to enter and bathe.  When we looked in, very little business was going on, and one of the attendants, in the hope of receiving a small coin, was nothing loath to show us round.

It is the largest and most efficiently arranged of all the Pyrenean establishments, and can accommodate over 200 people at the same time; “douche” baths, swimming baths, ordinary baths, rooms for inhaling, rooms for “pulverisation,” seemed to succeed one another with unending rapidity, as we followed our guide down long corridors or up flights of stairs; and when at last it was all over, and he had quietly and contentedly pocketed his coin, we felt as though we had been taking quite a long walk.