On a Tuesday, when the market is in full swing, the square in front of the post-office looks bright and cheerful, and vegetables flourish.  We took a very pleasant walk after passing through the stalls, and down past the Hotel de France.  The route we followed leads to the right, close by the new State schools, among some poor cottages, where it turns sharply in the opposite direction, and runs down beside some fine old chestnut trees to the river.  Continuing, the track leads up a fine glen, with views of the snow-peaks towards Eaux Bonnes, which well repaid our walk.

Returning again by the town, we wandered about through the narrow streets, taking a farewell survey before leaving for Cauterets, whither we were next intent.

There is another episode connected with Argeles, that will live in our memories, and it is one that future travellers, methinks, may have reason to appreciate, if not to endorse.

Everybody learns from unhappy experience how sour the bread is throughout the Pyrenees, only excepting two or three resorts, and as we were aware of the fact before leaving Pau, we arranged with Monsieur Kern, of the Austrian Bakery, Rue de la Prefecture, to send us a certain amount of bread every day.  The first night at Argeles was spent without it, but on the evening of the following day a packet was brought into the drawing-room, where we were assembled, and at the magical word “bread” every eye brightened, and every face relaxed into a smile.  Let no one cavil.  This was one of the episodes that link Argeles to us with a pleasant charm.

CHAPTER V.

CAUTERETS.

Hotel de la Poste, Pierrefitte—­The Gorge—­Its majestic beauty—­The resemblance to the Llanberis Pass—­Mrs. Blunt becomes poetical—­Zinc mines—­Le Pont de Mediabat—­Entering the town—­The Rue Richelieu and Hotel du Parc—­Winter’s seal upon them still—­Thermes des Oeufs—­Thermes de Cesar—­The Casino and Esplanade des Oeufs—­A good dinner and the menu—­The start for the Col de Riou—­The Grange de la Reine Hortense—­The pines—­Miss Blunt’s “exhortation to the first snow”—­The dogs and their gambols—­Defeated, but not discouraged—­To the Cerizey Cascade—­The baths of La Raillere, Petit St. Sauveur, and Le Pre—­Cascade du Lutour—­The Marcadau gorge—­Scenery—­Pic de Gaube—­At the Cerizey Cascade—­The Pont d’Espagne and Lac de Gaube—­Pont de Benques—­Lutour Valley—­Various excursions up same—­The “Pare”—­Allees de Gambasque—­The Peguere—­The “Pagoda” Villa—­Promenade du Mamelon Vert—­The road’s up again—­Blows and blasts—­The bishop’s arrival—­Enthusiasm, pomposity, and benedictions—­The pilgrims at large—­They start on an excursion—­The market and Hotel de Ville—­The grocer’s opinion—­Pyrenean dogs and their treatment—­The dog-fancier—­Smiles and temper—­Bargaining displaced—­No dog after all!