CHAPTER VII.

St. Sauveur.

Pont de Pescadere—­Sassis—­Gave de Gavarnie—­St. Sauveur—­Hotel de France—­Pont Napoleon—­Napoleon’s pillar—­Bee orchids—­Chapel of Solferino—­The view from thence—­Ne’er a hermit but for gold—­Luz cemetery—­Luz post-office—­Short cuts—­Pharmacie Claverie—­Jardin a l’Anglaise—­Ascent of Pic de Bergons—­Villenave—­The shepherds’ huts—­Lunch—­Snow, its use and abuse—­On foot—­“Excelsior”—­Dangerous footing—­The last crest but one—­The view—­Gavarnie and Argeles in sight—­A lazy guide—­A “fast” bit—­Mountain flowers—­Mr. Sydney to the fore—­A short walk and a good view—­To Sazos and Grust—­The bathing establishments—­Sazos:  the old church—­The belfry—­Chiming extraordinary—­Various promenades—­Gems of hill and vale

CHAPTER VIII.

Gavarnie.

A “falling glass”—­The wonderful echo—­Cascade Lassariou—­Sia and its bridge—­Pont de Desdouroucat—­“Changing scenes”—­Bugaret torrent—­The Pimene—­Bue—­Gedre—­Breche de Roland in the distance—­The “Grotto”—­Scenery at fivepence per head—­Daffodils—­Lofty summits—­Cascade d’Arroudet—­Chaos—­Valley of the “Ten Thousand Rocks,” Amoy—­A dirty avalanche—­The Sugar-loaf—­Travellers’ troubles —­Importunate females—­Hotel des Voyageurs—­Poc—­Guide or no guide—­Chute de Lapaca—­The guardian summits of the Cirque—­Cascade du Marbore—­Chandelles du Marbore—­The Cirque—­Its marvellous beauty—­Reluctantly returning—­“The Guide’s Auction”—­“Two women enough for a market, and three for a fair”—­A Yankee tale—­Sketching and flowers—­Tempers and appetites

CHAPTER IX.

From Luz and st. Sauveur to Bagneres de Luchon.

A smiling valley—­Lourdes again—­The chapel in the crypt—­St. Peter’s statue—­Burnished toes—­Solemn quietude—­Preparing for the great pilgrimage—­“Ornamented” crosses—­Mr. Sydney’s new vocation, “Guide, Philosopher, and Friend”—­Bigorre again—­An open-air concert —­Harmonious echoes—­Paying through the nose—­The fete at Payole—­Sport a la francaise—­Costumes—­The view from the Col d’Aspin—­Arreau—­Quaint houses—­La Chapelle de St. Exupere—­A whining “gardien”—­Eglise de Notre Dame—­The river Neste—­Hotel de France—­Borderes—­Avajan—­Louderville—­Oxslips and cowslips—­Wild narcissus—­Col de Peyresourde—­The view—­Garin—­Cazaux—­St. Aventin—­Lovely avenues—­Our destination

CHAPTER X.

Bagneres de Luchon.