But Pau was far too hot for us to remain for more than a few days, although the heat was unusually great for that time of the year, and we were very glad when once more on our journey towards the pleasant breezes and blue waters of the Biscay.

CHAPTER XIII.

BIARRITZ.

A warm ride—­Bayonne—­A “Noah’s ark” landscape—­Amusements —­Bathing—­Shells—­Cavillers—­A canine feat—­The pier and rocks—­A restless sea—­“The Three Cormorants”—­Dragon’s-mouth Rock—­To the lighthouse—­Maiden-hair ferns—­Mrs. Blunt’s adventure—­The drive round the lakes—­Osmunda regalis ferns—­The pine-woods near the bar—­St. Etienne and the Guards’ cemetery—­Croix de Mouguere—­Cambo and the Pas de Roland—­Anemones—­A fat couple—­A French scholar —­Hendaye—­Fuenterabia—­A quaint old-world town—­The Bidassoa —­Pasages—­San Sebastien—­The Citadol and graves—­The “Silent Sisters”—­Raised prices—­Parasols and spectacles.

The journey to Biarritz began comfortably enough, but after the first few miles the heat became very oppressive, and though we had no repetition of our Montrejeau experience at starting, we felt nevertheless almost as warm as if we had.

Our arrival at Bayonne was a great relief, for the sun had partially retired, and as we crossed in turn the Adour and the Nive, a scent of the “briny” was borne into our omnibus with revivifying effect.  Passing up one of the narrow old streets to execute a few commissions, we regained the “Place,” crossed the drawbridge, and entered the lovely avenues, from which, beyond the “fosse,” the twin towers of the beautiful cathedral come into view.  On the right is the station of the “steam tram-line,” and some hundred yards beyond it the road to Biarritz curves in the same direction.

This road cannot be called beautiful!  The never-ending line of poplars along each side turn the landscape into that Noah’s ark style which even the soul that could be “contented with a tulip or lily” would hardly admire.  Approaching Biarritz, however, the handsome villas and their gardens fully deserve the epithet which cannot in justice be applied to the road.  They are indeed beautiful; and to pass them even in winter, with the camellia trees laden with blossoms and the roses scenting the air, makes comparison with our London gardens very odious indeed!

Under the small-gauge railway-bridge, and past the new “English Club,” we soon entered the town, [Footnote:  The distance between Bayonne and Biarritz is 5 miles.] and driving down the Rue Mazagran into the Place Sainte Eugenie, drew up at the familiar Hotel de Paris, in time for dinner.

Although Biarritz is in the department of the Basses-Pyrenees, it is so far away from the mountains that many might consider its introduction into this volume as questionable; we do not therefore intend to say as much as could be said about it.  At the same time, it is so greatly recommended by doctors as a beneficial spot for a final “brace up” before returning to England, after a mountain trip, and is, besides, such a favourite winter residence, that we consider it would be more “questionable” to omit it.