method of dyeing in which patterned areas are covered with wax so they will not receive the colour. The method is used mainly on cottons and in the traditional colours of blue, brown, and red. Multicoloured and blended effects are obtained by repeating the dyeing process several times, with the initial pattern of wax boiled off and another design applied before redyeing.
The basic technique, originated at an unknown time, was apparently practiced widely in Southeast Asia with local variations, as in Celebes Island, where the wax was applied with bamboo strips. In Java, by the mid-18th century, a small copper crucible with a handle and narrow applicator spout for applying the wax came into use, producing a much more elaborately patterned cloth; a further Javanese innovation was the wood-block wax applicator introduced in the 19th century. The Dutch imported both the cloth and the technique to Europe. Present machines for applying wax in traditional Javanese patterns may reproduce such effects of the hand process as the staining caused by fissures in the wax. See also resist printing.
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